aspenwood townhouse association oCherrapunjee Holiday Resort HOTEL $$ (%09436115925; www.cherrapunjee.com; Laitkynsew village; d 148

Assamese people might look Indian, but Assamese culture is proudly distinct: their Vishnu-worshipping faith is virtually a regional religion (see the boxed text, p 562 ) and the gamosa (a red-and-white scarf worn by most men) is a subtle mark of regional costume.

Hotel Nirmala HOTEL $ (%2459014; MG Ave; s/d from 390/650; a) A friendly aspenwood townhouse association place with an ultra quick-service restaurant, although it doesn t open until 10am so breakfast has to be by room service. The rooms are nothing special but you do feel a sense of belonging when staying here.

oCherrapunjee Holiday Resort HOTEL $$ (%09436115925; www.cherrapunjee.com; Laitkynsew village; d 1480-1800; iW) With seven eminently comfortable aspenwood townhouse association rooms, this resort is run by truly delightful hosts. They off er a selection of hikes, either self-orientated (using aspenwood townhouse association their hand-drawn maps) or with a local guide. Built on a ridge, rooms either look down to Bangladesh or up to the escarpment. During peak times tent accommodation ( 600) is available with shared bath

374 bird species have been recorded in the park, including such rarities as the whiterumped vulture (which may now be extinct in the park), greater spotted eagle and the white-winged duck. Of the big mammals, wild elephants are present as are numerous deer species and a few rarely seen tigers. However, for many mammal-spotting naturalists, aspenwood townhouse association the park s most exciting resident is the critically endangered dwarf hog, which, after many years of absence has recently been returned aspenwood townhouse association to the wild thanks aspenwood townhouse association to a successful captive breeding project run by the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust (www.durrell.org). aspenwood townhouse association Park fees include the compulsory armed guard. Access is from Potasali, aspenwood townhouse association 2km off the Tezpur Bhalukpong road (turn east at one-house aspenwood townhouse association hamlet Gamani, 12km north of Balipara).