snowmass recreation The biggest, most cosmopolitan and, some might say, the most Indian city in the northeast, Guwahati

Assam s must-do attraction is an elephant safari to look for rhinoceros hiding in the expansive grasslands snowmass recreation of this national park (h1 Nov-30 Apr, elephant rides 5.30-8.30am, jeep access 7.30am-noon & 2.30pm-dusk). Kaziranga s population of around 1855 Indian one-horned rhinos (just 200 in 1904) represents more than two-thirds of the world s total. The park consists of a western, central and an eastern range, but the central range is the most accessible, giving the best viewing chances for rhinos, elephants snowmass recreation and swamp deer plus plenty of bird life (take binoculars).

While each of these hotels have good restaurants, snowmass recreation the cosy Dragon Restaurant (Old Market; mains 60-150) is the town s best eatery with freshly made local dishes such as churpa ( 150), a fermented cheese broth with fungi and vegetables that tastes much better than it sounds. Also don t miss the Tibetan tea. An acquired taste if ever there were one.

The biggest, most cosmopolitan and, some might say, the most Indian city in the northeast, Guwahati is an essential stop on any northeastern tour. A casual glance might place Guwahati alongside any other Indian city but wander snowmass recreation the back alleys around Jorpulkuri Ponds, away from the concrete jungle of the central business district, and you could almost imagine snowmass recreation yourself in a village made up of ponds, palm trees, small single-storey traditional houses and old colonial-era mansions.

Doe-Gu-Khill Guest House (%223232; r from 700), just below the large monastery, providing fabulous views. The Hotel Tsepal Yangjom (%223473; www.hoteltsepalyangjom.co.in; s/d from 800/1200) in the market area is probably the town s most popular hotel. Its wood-panelled rooms have a vague Scandinavian feel and it has a generator to cope with the frequent blackouts.