Dramatic if largely unadorned, this 1752 brick palace (Indian/foreigner 5/100; hdawn-dusk) is the last remnant of the Ahom s pre-Sivasagar mountainside ski & sports capital. The unique four-storey structure rises like a sharpened, stepped pyramid mountainside ski & sports above an attractive forest-and-paddy setting spoilt by nearby electricity mountainside ski & sports substations. It s 900m north of the Sivasagar Sonari road: turn just before Gargaon (14km) from Sonari.
The inconveniently located APST bus station (take an autorickshaw) has services to Along ( 220, seven hours, 6am and 12pm) and Itanagar mountainside ski & sports ( 170, 10 hours, 5.30am and 6am). Sumos run to Along ( 220, seven hours, 6am and noon) and Itanagar ( 300, six hours, 6am). The road to Along is in a dreadful state be prepared mountainside ski & sports for a very long and rough day. Sumos also run to Tuting mountainside ski & sports ( 800) but only when demand warrants it. Ferries (Indian/foreigner 20/100, vehicle 1200; 8.30am & 9.15am) drift lazily down the Brahmaputra to Dibrugarh in Assam from Majerbari Ghat (sumos mountainside ski & sports take one hour from Pasighat, depart at 6am and cost 120). Ferry tickets are sold by Otta Tours & Travel mountainside ski & sports at the sumo stand.
560 NORTHEAST TRIBAL mountainside ski & sports STATES AS S A M NORTHEAST TOURS The vast majority of foreign mountainside ski & sports tourists visiting the northeast states travel as part of an organised tour, and indeed for four of the states (Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Manipur and Mizoram), independent travel in the normal sense of the word is almost impossible. Instead, the only realistic way of getting permits is to enlist the services of a tour company. mountainside ski & sports Once you have a permit, travelling around independently is not normally a problem, but you re unlikely to find a tour company who ll help you get permits without mountainside ski & sports fi rst hiring a car and driver/guide from them, thus making real independent mountainside ski & sports travel in the permit states pretty much impossible. Most tour companies are based in Guwahati and all of the following can organise permits mountainside ski & sports and tours throughout the northeast. Traveller s Point (Map p554; %2604018; www.assamtourism.org; mountainside ski & sports Prashaanti Tourist Lodge, Station Rd) If you re staying only within Assam then Assam Tourism s commercial booth runs a variety of city- and state-wide tours including day excursions to Hajo via the silk-weaving centre of Sualkuchi. Network mountainside ski & sports Travels (Map p554; %2605335; www.networktravelsindia.net; GS Rd; h5am9pm) A highly experienced agency whose operations cover the whole of the northeast with tailor-made and fixed-itinerary tours. Organising permits is a speciality. Jungle Travels mountainside ski & sports India (off Map p554; %2667871, 9207042330; www.jungletravelsindia.com; 3b Dirang Arcade, GNB Rd) Another experienced agency covering the entire northeast with tailor-made tours and fixed-date departures. It organises all the permits, but can be slightly mountainside ski & sports disorganised in this regard. With two boats, it runs Brahmaputra cruises (see www.assambengalnavigation.com) for four to 10 nights at US$350 per person mountainside ski & sports per night, and also runs the Bansbari Lodge in Manas National Park. Rhino Travels (Map p554; %2540666; www.rhinotravels.com; M Nehru (MN) Rd) This agency offers set-date tours in Assam and Arunachal Pradesh. It also offers two- to four-night river cruises. 4 Sleeping & Eating
Only 40km from Guwahati, this small national park has the highest concentration of rhinoceros in the world. Entrance fees are the same as Kaziranga National Park (see p 561 ). Getting into the park involves a boat ride over the river boundary to the elephant- mounting station. From there it s a one-hour trip atop an elephant lumbering through boggy grassland and stirring up petulant rhinos.
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